Scotland - Going down the West Coast

21 June 

Slow start this morning with some school, walking the dogs (and kids) and finally packed up to leave camp around 11:30. Stopped to get rid of waste water and refill water tank in the van and then hit the road. 


Not a terribly far trip today, only 25 miles between Durness and Scourie, but in some pretty inclement weather was not much fun with winding roads and the motion sick child. Valoid to the rescue again, and thankfully mama remembered to give it before we left camp today! Maxine was drowsy from the meds and spend most of the time with her head on her sisters lap as a pillow. 

Just outside Durness we stopped at the craft village. A strange place of miniature studios and attached houses dotted around a large area. Each artist living and selling their wares independently. We saw glass fusion art, paintings, enamel and copper worker as well as a mini-museum of pebbles and their local origins. Bought a book on ‘pebble spotting’ in UK for the kids to discover what we have collected so far, and going forward - it counts as geography right!?

We stopped for the ‘worlds best hot chocolate’ as advertised at the cafe… it was rich for sure, but mostly just melted dark chocolate into a cup of milk, a dollop of cream on top, more chocolate (milk and white) drizzled on top and for added sugar, marshmallows too! None of the girls could really finish the hot chocolate, and Robyn felt slightly sick afterwards on the road too. 

We made a detour to Kinlochbervie, the most northerly port on the west coast of Scotland, to find a spar (grocery shopping) and a geocache. Had lunch at the scattered harbour and walked along Lock Innis and found a  thistle in full bloom as well as our geocache. 


Then back onto the single track poor condition tar road with a multiplicity of “passing places” that only added to the stop start motion sickness problem. 


Around 3pm we arrived at Scourie campsite, another which is directly on the shores with breathing views. With miserable weather we took our remaining school work to the adjoining pub and did it there for the afternoon. Soon we needed food to soak up the beers, so ordered pizza and played a spelling game to round off school for the day. 

Luckily the sun reappeared for a bit, and we took a stroll to the harbour alongside the campsite and then came back to the van for a video call with friends, a little bit of TV (this time is was ‘Britains Best Young Artists’ inspired by the craft village today) and finally the usual bed time routine. 


Kids asleep and parents making plans for the next part of the adventures - South Africa, European Road trip and South America next year. 10pm and the sun is now shining, but its chilly out with the wind howling around the coastland. 


22 June

After sleeping in, we sorted out the van and headed to Handa Island.  To get there we had to drive up and down some very windy roads to the Ferry point.  Unfortunately dogs are absolutely not allowed on the island, so Robyn decided to have some quiet time with the doggies and stayed behind whilst Mish took the girls to the Island.  Here is Maxine's account of our little expedition:


"Today we went to Handa Island to see if we could see some Puffins.  The Road to the island went from white to red, odd? It was bumpy too, so I had to stop myself vomiting.


At the harbor we struggled to find a parking spot.  Eventually we found a place with a pole resting on a rock.  While the parents were sorting out the car, Harri and I played a game called "knock off" where you walk along the pole ad when you come face to face with the other person you knock them off and carry on.

Before boarding the pedestrian ferry, we had to put on life jackets that tug on the back of the neck. On the island a guide/boathelper gave us a quick health and safety talk before heading onto the island. 


A quick stop at the information centre and the loo.  There were binoculars for rent (£3) but there were none left. On the way we lost a hat but at stop #3 an old man told us where we had lost it so we were fine.  At stops 3 and 4 we saw the seabirds.  Some were white ad grey and some were puffins.  Every nook in the cliff face there were nests.  Puffins were everywhere!

Going back to the beach we were dive-bombed by Artic Skuas. Along the way we picked up our hat and went back to the ferry to find mama and the dogs"

The girls also got to have some fun on the island beach whilst we waited for the ferry.  They got their feet wet in the sea and played wheelbarrow up and down the beach to the amusement of the other ferry passengers.


Once back on mainland, we drove a bit inland and found a lovely spot in the hills, overlooking the bays and the sea.  There we made ourselves a cup of hot tea and got to do our school work.  Then we headed back to camp. 

Along the way we stopped by a Loch as Robyn decided that if we are in Scotland we should go for a swim in a Loch.  Regardless, the water was very cold!  Mish was not keen on the idea, but nether the less, the whole family got all the way in, including submerging our heads!  

Back in camp we warmed up with a hot shower and hot chicken noodle soup! 


23 June

This morning as the rain started to drizzle, we decided to hit the road early and hope that the weather improves.  Today's road took us along the small coastal area, through Drumbeg, Clashnessie to Lochinver, on mainly a single track road.  It was very scenic especially when we got golden rays of sun coming through the clouds (so hard to catch in a picture).  We even managed to find one of the very few geocaches on this section of the route. 

We arrived in Lochinver just in time for a late lunch, and eventually settled on a little cafe for some yummy food.  It was perfectly timed, as whilst we were there it started to rain and we managed to miss most (but not all) of it.  With happy bellies we headed out again, enjoying the views further, until we got to our campsite at Ardmair point. 

A lovely campsite, right on the beach and with a cafe.  We decided to make the most of the cafe and get our schooling done in a more comfortable setting.  It was a good choice as today was a slightly harder day for school - way too many distractions. 

The rest of the evening was spent just relaxing, cooking dinner and watching another episode of the Great British Sewing Bee.


24 June

We woke up with the sun shining, so we pulled out our chairs and enjoyed our breakfast in the fun.  As well as our schooling.  Afterwards we headed into Ullapool.


It’s a cute little town with a number of cafes, restaurants and a harbour.  We strolled through the village, did a bit of window shopping and stopped for a delicious lunch.  The Scottish mussels were the best, especially with the creamy garlic sauce that they came in. 

On the way back we took a detour to see a lighthouse and of course find a geocache. As the campsite is right next to the beach, we went on a stroll down the beach with the dogs.  Duke went ballistic with the waves and sea.  In the end we had to drag him out of the water.  It also provided a great excuse to wash the dogs, much to Daisy’s horror!

As the sun as still shining and it “felt” hot, the girls thought that it would be a good time to go for a swim.  Mish sat this one out as to keep control over Duke.  He seems to get incredibly jealous of anybody invading his personal swimming “pool” or any body of water without him. 

The rest of the evening was spent relaxing in the sunshine and enjoying a scrumptious dinner.  


25 June

This morning was not as shiny as yesterday.  Heavy clouds and strong winds made us  decide to use the campsite cafe to do our schooling today.  From there we could look outside and admire the view and the white tipped waves from the comfy warmth of the cafe. 


Eventually we finished the schooling and headed out.  Today was more of a driving day. All along the coast line, up and down valleys and through some gorgeous forests.  

Along the way we stopped at a waterfall and had our lunch.  

We stopped also in Gairloch harbour and walked through their little garden.  It’s a lovely little garden along the side of the road, and beautifully maintained.  You can definitely feel the community’s effort that was put into it. 

Later in the evening we made it to our campsite in Kinlochewe.  After the usual set up, we took the dogs for a walk.  The campsite is right on the start of the Beinn Eighe National Park.  We had a lovely walk, and it was fab just chatting with girls about slugs… Mainly them imagining how life would be as a slug!


One thing we discovered about Scotland is that the midges here are nasty and pack quite the bite.  Hence once the girls were in bed, the adults decided to hide away in the camper-van away from being eaten alive!

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